🇫🇷 Boulangerie, Bistro or Brasserie? 🤷‍♀️

At the table in the Champagne Region 

I am still glowing from our recent trip to France. We flew to Marseille, then boarded AmaWaterway's AmaCello for a 7-day river cruise on the Rhone and Saône Rivers, then went to Lyon, Reims, and Paris before returning home.

This was our first overseas trip in more than 2 years and honestly, it was easier than I had anticipated. Things are still in a state of flux, with countries in the EU changing their entry requirements almost day by day. I'm hopeful that things will continue to get easier.

While in France I realized that I needed to be more familiar with the various types of eating establishments and I did a bit of research. It seems we ate in nearly every type of eatery - I hope you enjoy this little research project.  And when you're ready to plan your own culinary journey to France, please let me know - I'd love to help you!  

PS - if you like this blog and would like to hear from me from time to time, please register HERE for my e-zine - and receive periodic articles delivered straight to your email inbox.  

Boulangerie, Bistro or Brasserie?

France is arguably the foodie capital of the world. Food is revered and many cooking styles and techniques originated here. While food is greatly appreciated, it's also takem very seriously - here's a list of the various types of eateries found in France - and where possible, I've shared a representative photo from our recent travels.

CAFÉ - Cafés are typically neighborhood spots serving hot drinks - coffees, tea, chocolate chaud (hot chocolate), and alcoholic beverages. They offer light fare - sandwiches, salads, and so forth. They are typically open from morning until evening without closing mid-day. It's fine to come in and just have a drink - although you may be directed to a specific table or bar. This was L'Opera Café in Avignon; we ducked in here seeking shelter from the very chilly Provençal wind. (And I learned that in France Tulip-shaped glasses are preferred for serving sparkling wine - the shape of the glass enhances the bubbles and the aroma.)

BISTROT - A casual setting with reasonably priced, relatively simple food. Typically smaller and more informal than other restaurants. Bistrot are usually open for lunch and dinner, closed in between. They frequently have wicker chairs on the sidewalks in front of the restaurant, facing the street. Menu choices may be focused on seasonal ingredients and may also feature fusion with Asian or Middle Eastern cuisines. This was taken at the outdoor oyster (Huitre) shucking station at Les Antiquaires in Paris.

BISTROT ROTISSERIE - A bistro specializing in roasted meats. While in Lyon we had dinner at Cafe Terroir - which also offered foods typical of Lyon. Restaurants specializing in Lyonnaise food are also referred to as Bouchons - with lots of sausages, beef, pork, and fresh cheeses on the menu. (Since we had been on a tasting tour earlier in the afternoon, all I had room for was some lovely roast asparagus)

BRASSERIE - The root word here is Brasser which refers to the process of brewing beer. Unlike microbreweries in the US, very few brasseries produce their own beer, but they are likely to have a decent selection of European beers on tap and in bottles and a good selection of wine. Traditional, moderately priced French food is on the menu and the hours of operation are typically "service continu" - meaning that food is served all day. This lovely onion soup was served at La Feuillée in Theizé in the Beaujolais region.

BRASSERIE TRADITIONELLE refers to historic restaurants that have been in business for decades. Many feature elaborately decorated dining rooms dating back to the late 19th and early 20th century (the Belle Epoque) - the setting is a bit more formal and pricing is a little higher than a simple Brasserie. This is the dining room at Au Pied du Cochon; this restaurant has been in operation since 1946 and serves food 24/7.

AUBERGE loosely translates to "inn" and this type of eatery is typically part of a rural hotel or bed and breakfast. An "Auberge Terroir" uses certified regional (AOC) products. Food choices tend to be quite limited and are often part of a set menu. Small hotel restaurants may also be referred to as TABLE D'HÔTE (translates to Host's Table) and meals may be served family-style at a communal table.

Exterior of Hostellerie Due Vieux Pérouges; we stopped here for a snack during our day in Beaujolais.

This establishment is well known for their local specialty - Galette Péourgienne or Pérouges flat cake - basically sugar pizza

A homey lunch served at Les Boulles Dorées - roast asparagus nestled in asparagus mousse next to a poached egg in cheese sauce with a parmesan crisp.

The lovely dining room at Les Boulles Dorées overlooks a beautiful garden

A RESTAURANT typically offers multicourse meals including an Entree (starter/appetizer,) Plat (main course,) cheese, and dessert. Some combination of these courses is frequently offered at a fixed price. Restaurants are usually open for lunch and dinner, and offer an extensive wine list and elegant service. This restaurant, Severo, focuses on dry-aged beef - it's run by a former butcher (Boucher)

RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE - higher-end restaurants, many with at least one Michelin Star. They are frequently associated either with a celebrated chef or a luxury hotel. Expect to pay a minimum of €100 per person, not including wine. Set menus may be available for lunch; lunch pricing is typically more reasonable. We had dinner at Leon de Lyon; my chicken (Volaille du Bresse) was seriously one of the best dishes I've ever had.

There are several additional types of eateries in France, including:

• BOUILLON - traditional restaurants that cater to laborers and offer good food and great value
• BAR A VIN (Wine Bar) - typically offering a very simple menu, for example, bread, cheese, and charcuterie.
• TRAITEUR - originally "traiteur' was the nickname for the Guild of Cooks and Caterers who, over time, claimed exclusive rights to prepare dishes that were more sophisticated. Today the term broadly refers to caterers, but it also refers to a food shop selling prepared food for carryout or take away.
• BOULANGERIE - is a French Bakery, distinct from a pastry shop. While pastries may be available, their primary product is bread which must be baked on the premises.
• PÂTISSERIE refers both to French Pastry and the shop in which pastries are sold. To be a Pâtisserie in France, the pastries must be made by a licensed Mâitre Pâtissier (a master pastry chef.)
• VIENNOISERIE refers to flaky pastries typically consumed at breakfast and baked in the style of Vienna, Austria. Brioche and croissants are both categorized as Viennoiserie.

One final thing I learned during our trip - France has a competition among chefs called Meilleurs Ouvrier de France (MOF) which translates to "the best craftsman in France." Chefs who win this competition are permitted to have a special collar on their chef coat, featuring the tricolor red, white and blue of the French flag. During our food tour in Lyon, I noticed a chef in a butcher stall who was also depicted in a huge photo - he was awarded the MOF for his butchering skills in 2016. Another MOF we came across in Lyon was François Pralus - who earned this honor in 1955 for chocolate pastry. He invented the Praluline - a brioche studded with pink praline - candy-coated almonds and hazelnuts. Delicious!

Rendering of François Pralus with his MOF collar

Delicious Praluline!

Didier Massot, MOF for his butchering skills, in his stall at Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

Joan Qualls, Owner / Travel Advisor joan@tastefulvoyages.com

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