Ista'N'Bull

Well, that's the name of the steakhouse restaurant on the ground floor of our hotel.  Our chef trained in Europe, but according to huge pieces hung from the wall, all the food served here is sourced locally, and the meat produced in Turkey is the best the Chef has ever sampled.  Based on our dinner tonight, it WAS  pretty darn delicious!

We arrived in Istanbul yesterday at around1 PM local time, after leaving San Diego at 6:30 AM to Washington, DC, then leaving there at about 6 PM for a 6-hour flight to Frankfurt, then leaving there at about 9:30 for our 3-hour flight to Istanbul.  Simple, right?  Except for the little matter of time zones,  I have found that melatonin is very helpful, despite the very vivid dreams!  Plus I have a little ambien on the side.  I took 1/2  as the flight from DC to Germany was only 6 hours.

We arrived in Istanbul on schedule, and after retrieving our bags, we were met by a rep from the Cruise Line who directed us to the driver for our hotel.  We are staying in the Pera district, basically across the street from The Golden Horn (a waterway in Istanbul.)  Our hotel has a notable restaurant, called Hamdi, perched on its rooftop terrace which serves a huge variety of Turkish specialties cooked to order and served alongside a magnificient view.  We were very fatigued by the time we made it to dinner, but, dontcha know, at about 2 AM we were bright eyed and bushy tailed!  Managed to fall back to sleep until the breakfast room opened at 5:30 AM.

I had the opportunity to visit Istanbul once before, while my daughter was doing her study abroad program.  During that visit I stayed at a hotel near the Marmara Sea and the breakfast was hearty but limited - sliced cucumbers, tomatoess, fresh bread, hard boiled eggs, yogurt, fruit and lots of cheese.

This hotel is clearly geared more to a foreign expectation, and the breakfast buffet was incredible, incorporating elements both of US and UK breakfast buffets, but with a decidely Turkish spin.  There were FOUR separate areas - PIDE, (bread) featurimg not only bread and a toaster but also continental style pastries alongside typical Turkish baked goods.  The most unusual item was a "sleeve" from a honeycombe, wax intact, for absolutely local honey (alongside about 9 varieties of honey/jam and Nutella, Peanut Butter, etc.)  There was a salad stand with tomatoes, several varieties of lettuce, cheese, olives and lots of spices.  After that came an impressive display of olives and coldcuts (no pork.)  That moved along to beautifully presented fresh cut fruit, served with several yougurt flavors as well as dry cereal, granola and tons of dried fruit. There was a beverage station, too, with fresh squeezed OJ, water, boxed milk (white, chocolate, soya) and my favorite, a big pitcher of water spiked with persian cucumber slices, lemon slices, parsley and mint.  So tasty and refreshing!  Finally there was a hot bar with chef to cook eggs to order, including pork sausage and bacon on request, as well as baked beans, roasted tomatoes and potatoes, eggs cooked with tomato and scrambled plain, as well as hardboiled.

Upon arrival to the hotel, I had booked a slot at their lower ground spa, which is staffed mostly by immigrants from Bali. I had heard of "Turkish Bath" but was unfamiliar with the custom of Hammam, and made an appoinment on the recommendation of the desk clerk.

The Hammam Room was reminiscent of the Roman Bath ruin at Pompeii.  It's a round room covered with white marble, with drainage holes along the meeting of wall to floor.  There is a low round marble table in the center of the room, and large marble basins on either side.  My therapist, stripped down to bra and short shorts, directed me to strip and lie prone on a towel and pillow situated on the round marble table in the room's center.  I've had a LOT of massages/treatments where I was nude under a sheet or a towel - but never one in which I was totally nude.  In my mind, I thought, "it's just like the doctor!" and went with it.  What followed was an intimate but exquisite experience.  The therapist started by getting bowls of warm water from  the basin, and sort of sluicing it over my body.  She then put on a sort of loofah mitt an scrubbed me all over. This was followed by an amazing velvety sensation - when I opened my eyes and peeked, she had large bags of soft suds which were loosed all over my body, followed by another scrub.  Both Turkey and Indonesia (Bali) are predominantly Islamic, so I asked my therapist if she gives treatments to men as well.  Oh No!  There are male therapists for that.

After the bath, I chilled poolside for a few moments while she prepared the massage room.  The massage was basic but felt wonderful following the Hammam treatment, and was followed by a facial.  I swear, I have never been so beautiful :-D  The entire cost for this 2-hour session was a little bit over 300 YTL, or a little bit more than $100 USD.  I looked up Hammam and it's a very close relative to the Roman Baths of approximately 2,000 years ago.  Makes sense; Istanbul (nee' Byzantinium) was once the Eastern Seat of the Holy Roman Empire, after being renamed Constantinople (after Emperor Constantine the Great, in AD 330.)   It fell to the Ottomans in 1453; Istanbul is from the Greek "to the city" and the city was renamed Istanbul after the founding of the official Republic of Turkey in 1930.

While I was getting my treatments, Rich was working out in the adjacent fitness center.  We met at the room and then caught a taxi (TAKSI in Istanbul) for Sultanahmet a/k/a the Blue Mosque.  This was not our actual destination - we were headed instead to the Cistern, which was a water reservoir for the Tokapi Palace and "undiscovered" for hundreds of years - apart from the fact that residents overhead could lower buckets from their ground floor and pull up fresh water, sometimes with a fish!

School Trip?  All dressed up for a photo inside the Cistern

This is what it looks like in the cistern, without flash.

Cistern with Flash

The stone columns etc., in the cistern were "sourced" from ancient Greek and Roman buildings.  Two of the columns are supported by heads, one of Medusa, deliberately placed upside down. 

Fish in the Cistern

From the cistern we returned to our hotel, to rest up and get ready for the start of our tour on Tuesday.

Travel Day One - Our Excellent Adventure

Our journey from San Diego to Istanbul started at 4 AM, with the arrival of our car service.  We quickly got to the airport, and made it to the United Club before it opened.  Our flight from San Diego to Washington Dulles was quick and comfortable.  We had a two hour break before boarding the Big Plane for the hop across the pond.  The flight from Dulles to Frankfurt was only 6 hours; I was able to sleep through most of it!  We were fortunate to have a golf cart to transport us to our next gate, which was conveniently located next to another airport lounge.  This German-style lounge offered a great buffet including coldcuts, scrambled eggs with fresh chives for sprinking, yogurt, fresh fruit, lots of coffee and tea, and even though it was before 08:00 beer on tap, and self-serve wine and spirits.  While we relaxed, servers circulated offering guava smoothies.

The flight from Frankfurt to Istanbul was only about three hours; after retrieving our bags we were met by a Regent representative and driven through the city to our hotel, which has a great location close to the golden horn.

After taking a quick nap, we headed to the rooftop restaurant for a quick dinner.  I start my day tomorrow with a visit to the Hotel Spa before we do some touring on our own!

Here are some shots from the Hotel's rooftop restaurant:

:

Fireworks over the Golden Horn, from the rooftop restaurnt

View of the Sultanhmet mosque in the background

Beautiful selection of meze (salad-type appetizers)

A sample of some of the delicious Meze we shared

Sultanahmet Mosque lit up at night

Sunset over the golden horn

Partial view from hotel roof

Meatless Meatballs from Cibus Abruzzo

So in January of 2012, I got an email about a deal to go to a cooking school in Abruzzo.  Later that day my friend M landed in the ER.  I was sitting with her waiting for her test results and told her about this email.  We had traveled very well together a couple times and were talking about how great it would be to go to Italy together.  So we got on the phone to the travel agency and learned that there were a couple of slots open in October, which we grabbed, and a few months later, we were on our way to Abruzzo.  This turned out to be a truly magical trip - so magical that I went back this past May.

One doesn't typically think of Italy as an "all-inclusive" holiday destination - but with this program it truly is.  Abruzzo Cibus (www.abruzzzocibus.com) is a first rate operation run by the adorable Massimo Criscio and his charming sister Cristina.  They are supported by Chef Dino, Chef Cheryle and lots of wonderful, hospitable and gracious drivers, sous chefs, waiters, artists, translators - you name it - they will do it for you.  This is how it works:  for the "friend's discount" of 1,500 Euro, a driver will meet you at the Rome airport mid-day on Sunday, and drive you and 21 of your soon to be best friends approximately 3.5 hours by van to the hill town of Carunchio (there is a brief stop at an Autopista for bathrooms / snacks.)  Once there, you will be shown to your room in the restored Palazzo Tour D'Eau after being greeted with some welcoming snacks and aperativs.

During the next five days, until Saturday morning rolls around much too quickly, you are alternately in the kitchen cooking, very hands on, or in assorted vans / cars, driving around Abruzzo, visiting various food producers / purveyors and eating.  There is variability depending upon the season; for instance, when I visited in October the olives were just being harvested and we visited an olive oil press, but in May we visited a field looking for (and finding!) fresh truffles.  My previous visits to Italy had been limited to Tuscany which is very beautiful - but I've really fallen in love with Abruzzo and enjoy the sense of finding a place that is sort of off the beaten path.  If you have the time and the resources I urge you to  visit Cristina, Massimo and the folks at The Palazzo - you will thank me.

Keep reading for directions on how to make Massimo's favorite childhood dish, "meatless meatballs",

The Fabulous Massimo greeting guests upon arrival at the Palazzo

 One of the first appetizers we made - meat wrapped around cheese and arugula

 Chef Dino - not only does he teach, he also prepares all of the wonderful meals int he Palazzo

 The Trabocco or "fishing House" on stilts in the Adriatic Sea - one of the more magical experiences

 Gorgeous dahlias at a local florist

 Palazzo's signature dish during the welcome dinner.  No, you can't have the recipe!

 Artichokes before trimming and stuffing

 Artichokes after trimming and stuffing; before braising

 Stuffed mussels; part of lunch on the Trabocco

 mixed fried seafood; also part of lunch on the Trabocco

 truffles found during the truffle hunt and artfully displayed by The Davide

 some of the local Carunchio sausages sampled during dinner at the butcher shop.  

 Beautifully prepared pizza toppings for our farewell pizza dinner

 PIZZA!

 Freshly picked olives; September

View of the Adriatic through a plant-topped archway

POLPETTINE CACIO e UOVA
(Cheese and Egg Dumplings in Tomato / Pepper Sauce)
Serves 12 As a Main Course

For Meatless Meatballs:

• 14 Eggs
• 2 16-ounce loaves Italian bread - ground / grated / shredded into crumbs
• 18 ounces parmesan / pecorino cheese or mixture
• chopped parsley or basil or mixture, to taste
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1 head of garlic, cloves peeled and chopped fine
• 1 Quart of Olive oil for sauté

Mix the above ingredients together in a bowl until fully blended.  It's ok to grind bread and cheese and garlic in food processor but not necessary; this recipe can be done totally by hand if food processor is not available.

 ^^^ Breadcrumbs

^^^Cheese added to Crumbs

^^^Garlic, Herbs, Eggs added to cheese and Breadcrumbs -

 Form by hand into compact ovals or rounds.  (I set mine out on a parchment lined cookie sheet.)

 ^^^Olive oil heated over medium-high heat for sauté

Saute' the rounds in batches preheated olive oil over medium high heat until nicely browned.  Remove to paper towels to drain until all rounds are browned.  Drain olive oil from pan. 

For Sauce:

• Olive Oil for Saute'
• 2 Medium Yellow Onions, sliced
• 4 Medium red/yellow bell peppers, sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 3 28-ounce cans whole plum tomatoes in sauce (undrained)
• salt and pepper to taste
• 4 bay leaves
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary

 ^^^sliced vegetables

 in pan with herbs and oil

In the olive oil, saute the onion, garlic and bell pepper until soft.  Add the tomatoes, breaking up with spoon.  Add salt and pepper, bay, rosemary.  Simmer 3/4 hour until oil shows on top of the sauce.  If sauce looks dry, add some water and bring to a boil.    

 Drop the browned dumplings into the sauce.  Cook and turn gently.  They are finished when they are "spongy."

Thanks V - SWP!

Many years ago I attended a great workshop at GE Healthcare in Waukesha, Wisconsin.  One of the GE mottos is "SWP" - Steal With Pride.  That said, I just read a blog entry from V who is living in London to attend school and just decided to "steal" it.  Thanks Val!

2012-IN-REVIEW

1. What did you do in 2012 that you’d never done before?
Bought my own house.  Spent new year's eve (2011-2012) under the Eiffel Tower with Ben.  Divorced. Went to Abruzzo.  Resigned from my job of 25 years to move to California. Attended Women's Retreat.  Took classes to convert to Judaism. Went to the Grand Old Opry and the Country Music Hall of Fame.

2. Did you keep your New Year’s resolutions, and will you make more for next year?
I don't make resolutions.  That said, I have one this year - to make fresh squeezed citrus juice every morning.  Thanks Sandy Caribou!

3. Did anyone close to you give birth?
Q's niece, Stacy, had a baby boy named Boston on 12/21/2012. That's right, the Mayan Apocalypse.

4. Did anyone close to you die?
Sadly, my father in law, Abraham Abbott Guttman, who died in July at age 96.  His body wore out but he was mentally sharp to the very end. I am happy that he knew I was moving to CA and that he saw photos of my new home.  Rachel Maddow lost her greatest fan. I still see his clenched fist and hear him saying "You tell em Rach"

5. What would you like to have in 2013 that you lacked in 2012?
More strength to stand up to bullying behavior.  Better self control.  Better memory!

6. What places did you visit?
Paris, Amsterdam, Daytona Beach, Encinitas, CA and Scottsdale, AZ (Spring Training on my mom's 84th birthday!) Maquoketa, IA, Nashville, Longmeadow, MA, New Haven (for Pizza!,) Carnegie Hall (to see my niece Laila's choir performance!,) Fort Madison, IA, Decatur, TX, Elizabeth, CO,  Daytona Beach and Jacksonville, FL (flew with Ben for the first time and saw the best Bears game of the year,) Rome and Abruzzo, XC trip #1 in RV with two Siamese cats and XC trip #2 with U-haul towing my car, and San Francisco with Q, Ben and Kenzie.  Phew!

7. What date from 2012 will remain etched upon your memory, and why?
3/4/12 - met my Q in person.  March Forth!

8. What was your biggest achievement of the year?
Purchasing a house, but also meeting Q, divorcing and leaving RHC after 25 years.  All very grown up things to do. 

9. What was your biggest failure?
losing my temper with resultant words spoken which I regret 

10. Did you suffer illness or injury?
Fell in Nashville; ultimately diagnosed with compression fracture of my tibial plateau.  That's about it.

11. What was the best thing you bought?
My home.  Some beautiful handmade shoes in Rome.  And a Chitarra for making pasta.

12. Whose behavior merited celebration?
My niece, Laila and my friend Mary L.

13. Whose behavior made you appalled and depressed?
The Republican Party

14. Where did most of your money go?
Down payment

15. What did you get really, really, really excited about?
My Q, our new home, moving to CA and the ability to be in close proximity to my "family of origin" some of you will get this.  Plus being part of the BEST GROUP EVER at Palazzo Tour D'Eau Cooking School (Thanks Groupon!) in Carunchio, Abruzzo, Italy

16. What song will always remind you of 2012?
Carole King's 'You've Got a Friend" as belted out during a card game in the Palazzo.  Folks who went to bed early were saying the next morning, "We heard singing and it sounded good!"  Steep Canyon Rangers and Dolly Parton - Pretty Flowers.  Steep Canyon Rangers and Paul McCartney - Best Love

17. Compared to this time last year, are you:
i. happier or sadder? HAPPIER
ii. thinner or fatter? Fatter. But people tell me I look better than when I lost all that weight!
iii. richer or poorer? different. 

18. What do you wish you’d done more of?
TCB

19. What do you wish you’d done less of?
TCB

20. How did you spend Christmas?
Q and I stayed in all day long.  Smoked a standing rib roast for the very first time. 

21. What would cheer you up today?
less drama. 

22. Did you fall in love in 2012?
YES!!!

23. How many one-night stands?
none.  not in 2012 or EVER. 

24. What was your favorite TV program?
MSNBC.  strange I know but I don't watch "regular" shows

25. Do you hate anyone now that you didn’t hate this time last year?
No.

26. What was the best book you read?
The President's Club

27. What was your greatest musical discovery?
Steve Martin and the Steep Canyon Rangers, or perhaps that's better phrased The Steep Canyon Rangers and Steve Martin

28. What did you want and get?
A successful transition back to life in CA.

29. What was your favorite film of this year?
None.  Seriously everything seems to have themes of infidelity which are incredibly disturbing.

30. What did you do on your birthday, and how old were you?
The night before, my parents took Q and I out to Tapenade in La Jolla for a wonderful French dinner.  On the actual day Q took me to lunch at a Mexican restaurant.  We ate outdoors in 70 degree weather on 11/21!  and the next day it was Thanksgiving!  Beauty!

31. What one thing would have made your year immeasurably more satisfying?
Umm the white sox NOT CHOKING?  And let's not even start on the Bears. 

32. How would you describe your personal fashion concept in 2010?
Tracy Reese after seeing Michelle Obama at the DNC.  And ModCloth.

33. What kept you sane?
Dr. B

34. Which celebrity/public figure did you fancy the most?
None

35. What political issue stirred you the most?
Gun Issues.  It's incredibly complex and I just don't know what the solution is.  I have 2 degrees of separation from 2 of the Sandy Hook victims and was in Elizabeth, CO when the Batman shootings happened.  I can't believe that we NEED all these guns. 

36. Whom did you miss?
Abe.

37. Who was the best new person you met?
Q.  Rene', Brian, Blake and Allie.  Kathy. Ray.  Jan, Ted, Stacy, Jesse and London.  Dr. Ted and Amanda.  AmbereyesLove.  The women from the Emanuel Retreat.  Pastors Mark and Martha.  And everyone from THE BEST GROUP EVER in Abruzzo.

38. Tell us a valuable life lesson you learned in 2012:
Trust is earned

39. Quote a song lyric that sums up your year:

Things were nice in California, 

loved our trip out to the coast.

Did I say your mother phoned us, 

you are my best love!

You look good in fancy dresses, 

wish we'd bought that one that day

I even like your old ex-boyfriend, 

you are my best love

Hardly heard and hardly spoken

Hard to talk when things are rough

Cant you hear my heart is saying 

You are my best Love?

Thanks for solving Friday's crossword

who knew! Ivan was a Czar?

And for having patience with me

You are my best love

Silence is not my intention

Hard to talk when things are rough

Forgive me if I fail to mention

You are my best love

Things were nice in California

Loved our trip out to the Coast

Did I say your Mother phoned us

You are my best love

40. What is next year’s horoscope?

2012 Overview for all Scorpios. Changes to your personality and needs this year are subtle and yet significant, dear Scorpio. For one, you're more willing to learn from others and to accept support offered. For another, your tastes in romance, recreation, and the arts are slowly but surely refining and blossoming. Relationships continue to figure strongly in your life this year. You are finding more joy in others, and they are more responsive to your needs. Partnership opportunities increase, particularly until June, in direct proportion to your generosity of spirit. Romance and casual relationships are unusual and exciting. The last quarter of the year brings less focus on pleasure and socializing. Increased personal responsibilities are likely with Saturn's entry into your sign, where it will transit until 2015. It's a time for keeping a lower profile and working on solid, long-term goals. Getting your life into order is the focus now. You'll be tending to those things you've left unfinished or neglected - matters that suddenly become pressing at this time. It would be wise to prepare for this cycle that begins in October by carefully considering practical responsibilities that you've let slide and tending to them, slowly but surely, so that  you are not overwhelmed. In 2012, there is likely to be increased attention to alternative health methods and lifestyles. Keeping daily life running smoothly (busy but not hectic is the goal) can be a challenge. While you're likely to find that financial support is easier to come by than usual this year, you will need to carefully watch your spending and borrowing habits. This comes more naturally from October forward. While the last quarter of 2012 can bring some sobering realities into your life, it's also a period conducive to turning dreams into reality, particularly creative ones. Your personality toughens up, but your powers of persuasion run high.

2012 Details.

From May forward, Jupiter graces your solar seventh house, and you may enjoy benefits through marriage, serious partnerships, common-law partnerships, business partnerships, negotiations, and/or contractual agreements. This is a period in which you are more likely to establish, or solidify, a significant partnership; or you could be enhancing an existing relationship. You can negotiate more successfully than usual, and, if applicable, you are that much more likely to win in legal matters or other forms of official negotiations. Financial benefits could possibly come through partnerships. For most of you who are already partnered, you are likely to find more joy in close relationships due to a more easygoing and tolerant attitude towards others and partnering in general. Legal matters or challenging relationship problems from the past might more easily be resolved now, and even more casual disputes are likely to be settled during this cycle. The need for freedom in your social relationships is strong, however, and if it is not forthcoming, you could feel caged in and restless. You may find yourself taking on the role of consultant or advisor, or you could benefit from help from same. Good publicity may come your way. If your work involves the public, you can safely expect increased popularity now, or you might receive good reviews, feedback, or word-of-mouth opportunities. Relationships and partnerships benefit from expansive, warm energy, or successful new ones are entered into this year. These positive circumstances won't necessarily fall into your lap, and are unlikely to come all at once. You need to keep your eyes open for opportunities in these areas of life. Also, although Jupiter is generally considered a positive and happy energy, close relationships could end during this cycle, but if they do, it's generally in order to move on to a happier, healthier, more tolerant relationship. A warm, open, and honest approach to others wins you positive new relationships, or enhances existing ones.

The most favorable periods for these matters occur while Jupiter is in direct motion in your solar seventh house, from May to October 4th.

During this Jupiter cycles, your sense of security and/or wealth can increase through a relationship with someone special or through a partner. Sources of income might also come through counselling work.

Saturn transits your solar twelfth house this year. Saturn turns a critical eye to all that lies beneath the surface, and you are forced to do some serious "spring cleaning" of your psyche during this period. You are facing your own demons - the vague yet haunting fears that undermine you. We all have skeletons in our closet. What we don't always realize is that they can seriously undermine our happiness and well-being. Saturn sweeps through your "closet" (the twelfth house), and demands that you take a hard look at what's been hiding in there. Is this process uncomfortable? For many of us, it can be. But getting rid of outdated attachments, and examining and discarding irrational fears, is not only necessary for further growth and development - it's ultimately a huge relief. Health issues, generally of a psychosomatic nature, may have come to the fore. Do your best not to dwell on past failures or guilt for what you haven't done during this cycle. Detach yourself from these things as much as possible.

Saturn enters your sign in October 2012, but will not reach a conjunction to your Sun until 2014.

The influences of Uranus and Neptune are similar to that of last year. Neptune continues its transit of your fourth house, perhaps bringing some confusion about your connections to your past, family, or home life. Uranus continues to transit your fifth house. During this cycle that has already been underway for many years, you tend towards unconventional ways of expressing yourself and your creativity. Your hobbies can be out of the ordinary, and so can your relationships with children and lovers, depending on how this cycle is affecting you. Sudden developments or surprises in your romantic life are par for the course with Uranus here. This is a time when you free yourself of personal inhibitions and a time of more spontaneous expression. This is a playful, somewhat eccentric, position for Uranus. Casual love affairs that have grown stale may be left behind now. You may also attract unusual romances or romantic partners into your life during this cycle. This long-term cycle is nearing completion.

With Pluto, Scorpio's ruler, in Capricorn for the last few years, Scorpios are more ambitious, practical, and security-minded. This trend continues in 2012. Your ruler squares Uranus in June and September this year, and this can bring a rather rebellious streak into your personality. You don't take kindly to others telling you what to do and when to do it. From June to September, it would be wise to guard against risky financial moves. You might find some conflict involving your pursuit of pleasure this year. Unsettled financial matters could get in the way of your desire to indulge in extra-curricular activities. However, your strong sense of responsibility should get you on the right track.

Eclipses in 2012 fall in your solar first and seventh houses. Issues of personal courage, confidence, and independence come to the fore. Eclipses also alert you to the need to interact with others--either the public, or through a close partnership. For some, marriage or divorce will be an issue. For most, carving out a personal identity that includes a significant other who furthers their own personal growth will come into focus.

A positive connection between your sixth and second houses in March suggests that practical matters are a large focus and are very strong. More security in your job is likely. You are more willing than usual to work diligently for money, and your natural talents are likely to be utilized more in the work you do, and appreciated by others. Creative partnerships might be formed during this period. Partnerships can be enhanced with increased communication and involvement.

http://v-stimac.com/

so now it's December 2nd

and I have a WHOLE Lot of catching up to do!!!

Last weekend in Chicago was really hectic.  I thought I had things under control, but no.  I thought I had everything essential packed and ready to go, but no.

We picked the camper up in Island Lake on Monday morning.  It took more than 90 minutes to check out.  I had optimistically thought we would be on the road west by noon.  Wrong!  Rich drove it back to the city.  We were able to pull it up behind the house to load, and then the fun began.

I had my cats wearing harnesses for a few days to prepare for wearing them all the time on the road.  They were finally used to them by the time I put them in the camper.  Before that they were walking as if they were drunk, or skulking spies.  Got them in the RV so they could watch me pack.  There was a fair amount of howling happening, despite the cat pheromones I had sprayed within the RV.  There was a sizeable (I thought) compartment on the underside of the RV, sort of like a luggage compartment on a bus - but loading it took longer and was more difficult than I thought.  I had to crawl inside to get the boxes snugly togeher (and I have the thigh bruises to prove it!)  I had a large portable kennel set up on the queen sized bed in the back of the van, and that's where I stationed Franki and Rusty for the first part of the drive.  We did not get on the road until after 3 PM, and had to meet Rich's sister in Davenport for dinner by 7, so we decided to skip the stop in Galesburg that day.  It was cold and rainy as we left - but the RV had a generator and heater so we were quite comfortable.  Who knew that on the following days, driving through Nebraska, Colorado and Utah it would be so warm that we would not need it again?

We met Kathy and Ray at The Machine Shed in Davenport, Iowa http://www.machineshed.com/davenport/ after checking on the menu multiple times. We stayed at the hotel next door, and Franki and Rusty had their first motel experience.    I love the last photo; it was as if Rusty was letting Franki know "it's going to be OK."